First Taste At The Mulberry Street Tavern

Brussels sprouts carbonara, topped with pancetta, pecorino cheese shavings and a soft egg, is one of the options on the Mulberry Street Tavern menu.  

Writer: Karla Walsh

If you’ve been lusting for a big-city getaway during the pandemic, you might find an escape much closer than you think. In fact, it’s downtown, at the new Surety Hotel: Mulberry Street Tavern (206 Sixth Ave.).

Open since November, the Surety Hotel will make you feel like you’re in the Windy City or New York, with an art deco lobby and accessories from Liz Lidgett Gallery and Design. Turn left to enter the safely spaced dining room and prepare for a treat. JC Shurts, director of food and beverage, and executive chef Marque Collins have elevated the classics with style, fitting the hotel’s aesthetic. The menu feels both approachable and innovative.

On our first taste, we sampled the Preserved States tinned fish ($12), an oh-so Instagrammable tin of mussels bathed in a combo of chili oil, shaved fennel and fresh herbs. The shallot jam on the cheese appetizer ($15) was the standout, as was the punchy carrot-citrus vinaigrette on the arugula salad ($12).

My dining partner and I agreed that the true stars of the evening—in addition to thoughtful service and adherence to coronavirus safety guidelines—were our main dish and side choices. The remarkably juicy half chicken ($25) came served on a bed of subtly spicy Peruvian aji amarillo sauce. And the Brussels sprouts carbonara ($9) topped with crispy pancetta, nutty pecorino cheese shavings and a soft egg, practically screamed comfort food.

The Broken Dreams cocktail ($12), with Wild Turkey rye, Campari, St. Germain, Cynar, strawberry, Lillet blanc and anise, was fitting to wash down the wanderlust wishes until we can travel far and wide again.

Learn more and book a table at Mulberry Street Tavern here.

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