The latke flight from RC’s Diner, featuring the Classic (left), the Bronx (middle) and the Hot Date.
Writer: Karla Walsh
Prepare for a cozy yet culinary-elevated variation on the classic “diner” theme at RC’s Diner (6587 University Ave.), opening July 13 in Windsor Heights. My dining partner and I were able to join for the first night of the soft opening—and were both blown away by the atmosphere, the service, the creativity on the menu and the execution. You can read more about the new eatery’s backstory in our report from May.
I started with an unexpectedly delicious, complex and savory cocktail inspired by one of my favorite spice blends: Everything but the Bagel. That’s the name and the garnish of the mixed drink, which features dill-infused gin and egg white. (My friend enjoyed her just-sweet-enough Sidecar.)
We started with the latke flight, which I’d recommend to all as a starter. It was challenging for us to each pick a favorite potato pancake as they were all so well-seasoned and balanced. I chose the Classic as No. 1 (spiced applesauce, horseradish sour cream, fresh chives), while my friend enjoyed the Bronx (house-cured salmon, creme fraiche, crispy capers, red onion). Our server preferred the Hot Date (griddled cheese curds, date brown butter, chives, caramelized onion), so you can’t go wrong.
For our mains, my pal enjoyed the matzo meal-crusted pork tenderloin with herbed spaetzle, pickled red cabbage and brown mustard crema. Think: Midwestern, crunchy, plate-sized tenderloin, but with a little Jewish flair and more finesse. I landed on the pan-roasted sockeye salmon with potato and dill kreplach, lemon-caper butter and roasted asparagus. Portions were generous without being overwhelming, and despite the rich ingredients, nothing felt too heavy.
After perusing the partial menu, we were excited to return to spoon mom’s matzah ball soup and dive into the beer-battered onion rings (with pastrami marmalade and Russian dressing!). Meat-and-potato lovers will delight in the herb-rubbed hanger steak with RC’s schmaltz butter and hand-cut fries.
There’s already latke to love (sorry) at RC’s, and they haven’t even officially opened yet. So mark your calendars for July 13; they’re open from breakfast to dinner, and you’ll definitely want to pull up a chair at this next-level diner.
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