Soiree in the Agrihood

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Cumming is the quintessential Iowa small town: a tight-knit community with a population of 436, according to 2020 census data, a main street peppered with locally owned businesses and a strong history of agriculture. What was a rural outpost when formally established in 1888 is now part of the Des Moines metro area and a popular pit stop along the Great Western Trail. Today, Cumming is also home to Iowa’s first agrihood — Middlebrook, a network of walkable neighborhoods centered on a working farm and community gardens where rural charm and modern living merge with the aim to preserve the area’s farming heritage.

A piece of Cumming’s rural heritage is the one-room schoolhouse, built in 1890, that for many years provided education for kindergarten through high school and was a cornerstone for the community. In 2022, the historic brick structure was restored as the Mercantile, a coffeehouse/bar/general store that today serves a similar purpose as a gathering place and anchor for the Middlebrook and Cumming community. “The Mercantile serves as the place for many types of functions. We’re a polling place and we host monthly Chamber of Commerce meetings,” said Robert Wilke, the Mercantile’s manager. “That’s in addition to the rehearsal dinners, parties and showers. Then again, we are also that quiet place to catch up with friends or enjoy a latte on the patio.”

Mornings and afternoons, the Merc brews beans from Madison County’s Pammel Park Coffee Co. into a menu of delicious pick-me-ups from cappuccinos to drips. The space welcomes constituents to linger over friendly conversation, use it as an away-from-the-office workspace (strong Wi-Fi is provided), and take meetings in casual comfort. “And the abundance of natural light gives the room a soft glow that makes everybody look good,” Wilke said.

Cheeky wallpaper in the bathrooms pays homage to the Merc’s former life as a one-room schoolhouse. In the ladies’ room, walls look as if a student has written “I will not chew gum in school” multiple times on a chalkboard. In the men’s, a portrait of Ben Franklin breaks the rules by blowing a bubble with gum.

In the evenings, coffee is still offered, but most patrons pivot to craft cocktails, beers on tap and in the can or bottle, and wines from Capital Call Vintners as they gather with neighbors and friends for post-work drinks on the patio and indoors. The Merc’s partnership with Capital Call Vintners brings customers several benefits, from once-each-quarter events with co-sponsors such as the Cheese Shop and a wine club that offers three levels of membership (and discounts among other benefits).

No enrollment is required, but you’ll certainly feel like a music-scene insider when enjoying the curated selection of local talents featured each weekend at the Merc. From local legends such as Bob Dorr and Pieta Brown to up-and-coming young talent, the venue’s calendar spotlights a wide variety of styles and flavors. “We are booking some of the most iconic and respected music talent in the area. If you stop by on any given weekend day or night, you’re sure to experience some incredible musical performances,” Wilke said. Assistant manager Rick Eaton added, “As I am booking music in this incredible little spot, I can’t express enough how honored I am for us to host such amazing talent at the Merc.”

In addition to being a local watering hole and music venue, Middlebrook Mercantile stays true to its name by offering a selection of local and small-batch provisions. The general store’s goods range from artisan items such as specialty candles and cutting boards to foods like meats, cheese, crackers and even fresh eggs from the community’s farm just across the street. The Merc is the consummate place to grab charcuterie fixings, a bottle of wine, bag of coffee beans or to shop for seasonal selections.

No matter the season, the Merc extends a warm, enchanting welcome. From workshop events to trivia nights (first and third Thursdays), holiday sip and shops to private events and wine club dinners, everyone can find a special reason to visit. But the magic of the Merc is in the everyday — brewing bespoke coffee drinks, serving flights of wine, helping patrons discover new performers and assisting shoppers in handpicking the perfect gift. And the charm that virtually drips from the walls of this rural heritage structure just enhances the not-to-be-missed experience.

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