Writer: Emmett McMenamy
As Easter approaches and the Lent season begins, parishes open their church cafeterias or school gyms for an annual tradition: the fish fry.
St. John and Paul in Altoona has hosted a traditional fish fry for more than 20 years, but about a decade ago, the parish set itself apart by adding a drive-thru in the parking lot. What began as a makeshift system with volunteer carhops evolved into two dedicated trailers and a well-oiled machine rivaling any fast-food restaurant. Now, with the dine-in and drive-thru options, this fish fry is bustling every Friday night during Lent.
The drive-thru dream originated from a member of the Altoona Knights of Columbus, the Catholic organization that runs the event. Steve Vonnahme, one of the organizers, said the team didn’t know if it could support a drive-thru but tried it anyway. “We just took a shot,” he said.
He said the initial setup definitely could’ve been more efficient. Volunteers would slip in and out the back door to take and deliver orders, inevitably interrupting the flow of indoor orders. The process worked well enough until the pandemic hit, and demand for drive-thru orders skyrocketed.
A solution rolled up in two custom trailers, one for frying fish and one for boxing meals. As soon as the fish turns golden brown, volunteers put it in a pan and carry it to the other trailer, where it’s boxed up with green beans and macaroni and cheese (Vonnahme’s favorite). The new system requires more help, but the Knights find plenty of volunteers to lend a hand.
While the efficient trailer-to-car service has become popular, indoor dining is still booming. Parish member Maxine McEnany said the chef has perfected the fish recipe, which draws folks from as far as Cedar Rapids to the feast.
“The Knights are so proud of what they do,” she said. “Seeing that crowded place, they are just busting at the seams.”
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