MinGaLaBar on Douglas Avenue serves up traditional Burmese cuisine. Zakaw htamin, the restaurant’s popular sampler platter, includes Burmese staples like fried beef, pork belly, eggplant, tofu, dried shrimp, rice and a veggie salad.
Writer: Hailey Evans
Photographer: Duane Tinkey
New York City’s Chinatown. Los Angeles’ Koreatown. Chicago’s Polish Downtown. Des Moines’ own Little Italy. Ethnic enclaves exist in big cities all over the United States. Many emerged with waves of immigrants more than a century ago, while others are still just popping up.
But even beyond the big-city limits, you can find clusters of diverse shops and restaurants. Here in Central Iowa, Urbandale happens to have quite a few thriving ethnic eateries, thanks to savvy restaurateurs and cosmopolitan patrons from around the world.
So next time you’re in the mood for something different, you can step out of your comfort zone without straying too far from your own ZIP code. Try the following recommendations to broaden your dining horizons.
Burma
MINGALABAR BURMESE KITCHEN
8134 Douglas Ave.
MinGaLaBar opened in a remodeled Pizza Hut in 2022 and is one of the few authentic Burmese restaurants in the metro, despite the large refugee population that calls Des Moines home.
“I enjoy sharing traditional Burmese dishes because they tell a story of culture, history and family,” owner Lum Naw said. The cuisine of Burma (also known as Myanmar) is influenced by the country’s neighbors — India, China and Thailand — yet it retains its own distinct character. Naw added, “Each dish carries a sense of warmth and tradition.”
The Iowa Restaurant Association awarded Naw the Faces of Diversity Community Impact Award for her commitment to sharing her culture. Even the name she chose for the restaurant is a Burmese greeting that conveys blessings. She wants guests to feel welcome and enjoys explaining different dishes to newcomers.
“What I love most is seeing people experience these flavors for the first time, the way their faces light up when they taste the balance of sweet, sour, spicy and umami,” she said. “It’s not just about the food. It’s about sharing a part of my heritage, connecting people through flavors and keeping Burmese culinary traditions alive.”
A comforting pork rib soup called “bak kut teh.”
Kyay oh is a popular Burmese noodle soup made with vermicelli in chicken broth and topped with quail eggs, greens and proteins like chicken, pork or tofu.
Peru
TULLPA
3708 Merle Hay Road
Gloria Henriquez shared similar reasons for opening Tullpa in December of 2022. “I did it out of my love for food and my desire to share that with my community,” she said.
She shares her South American roots through a fusion of “novo andina” dishes from Peru and its Andean neighbors, including ceviche, empanadas, lomo saltado and pupusas. The menu also features causas, a traditional Peruvian dish that borrows its name from the Quechua word for “sustenance.” It was originally made from yellow potatoes and yellow chili but has evolved into variations that include chicken, shrimp and tuna, layered with avocados and creamy sauces.
Since Tullpa makes everything in-house, diners can customize their causas and many other dishes, too. The business has attracted a following at the Downtown Farmers’ Market and several local festivals throughout the year. Henriquez said Tullpa has built a small community of repeat customers, and she loves to see familiar faces come back for more.
“My goal is always for the restaurant to be a warm and welcoming place where we can share traditions and people can experience different flavors,” she said.
The causa is a traditional specialty that originated in native Quechua traditions. The cold dish starts with a base of ground yellow potatoes and chilies, which is topped like a sandwich with layers of chicken, tuna or other proteins.
Turkey
ISTANBUL GRILL CAFE & BAKERY
3281 100th St.
Until now, a search for Mediterranean food in Iowa turned up mostly Italian or Greek. But now, another local option offers cuisines from just a touch farther east on the map, from Turkey, Lebanon and the Middle East.
The new Istanbul Grill Cafe & Bakery opened this past February and is one of the few Turkish eateries to be found in Des Moines. Step inside and you’ll find a display case full of mouthwatering pastries and desserts, like a golden rice pudding called “firin sutlac” and flaky Turkish baklava. (Turkish baklava is often made with a light neutral oil and ground pistachios, while the Greek version tends toward butter and walnuts.) Entrees include shish kebabs of chicken and lamb, gyros and lahmacun, a crispy flatbread pizza.
Turkish baklava from Istanbul Grill Cafe & Bakery is light and flaky, with a sweet and savory pistachio filling.
Mexico
HIDALGO MEXICAN BAR & GRILL
2675 100th St.
This local chain is named after Miguel Hidalgo, a Catholic priest who is often called the father of the Mexican Revolution of 1821. But you don’t need to know all the history to appreciate the restaurant’s homemade guacamole and fresh tortilla chips. The place has other Mexican staples like burritos, fajitas and enchiladas, plus some surprises like prawns in red sauce, ceviche and oysters by the half dozen. A small patio out front is open for soaking up the sun.
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