In Bosnia and Herzegovina, winemakers have been growing grapes since the 13th century. (Photo: Vinogradi Nuic)
By Chris Diebel
It’s been 30 years since Nevres Sehic and his family moved to Des Moines to start new lives in America after the Bosnian War. They initially moved into an apartment at 35th Street and Grand Avenue. It was close to Ingersoll Wine & Spirits, so Sehic walked in and asked for a job stocking shelves as a teenager.
Each day, he learned more about the bottles on the shelves and often met sales reps and producers traveling across the country to promote their brands. Over the years, his curiosity and continuing education led to industry trips to California and France. Now, he serves as the wine director for Gateway Market & Café.
In the last five years or so, Sehic has noticed a growing interest in wines from Eastern Europe. Greek and Slovenian offerings became popular enough that he decided to bring in a few labels at Gateway Market, which also stocks at least three wines from his Bosnian homeland.
Farmers have made wine in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina since at least the 13th century, but the region’s political history may be the reason why you haven’t heard much about it. Bosnia and Herzegovina was part of the former Yugoslavia (along with Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, Macedonia and Montenegro). Under communist rule for more than a half-century, wine producers could sell their grapes only to government-run operations. Furthermore, when wars for independence broke out in the 1990s, much of the country was destroyed, including many vineyards and wineries. After the war ended in 1995, those vineyards and wineries reverted to private hands and sparked a real wine renaissance in that part of the world.
Here are three Bosnian wines from Vinogradi Nuic that you can find right now at Gateway Market (on your way to this weekend’s World Food & Music Festival):
Zilavka (white): This grape is indigenous to Bosnia and tastes like a Spanish Albarino. It’s “clean, crisp and refreshing with notes of green apple,” Sehic said. It’s ideal with seafood and chicken pasta dishes. $20.
Blatina (red): Also indigenous to Bosnia, this wine is similar to a Tuscan red. It’s aged for 12 months in French barriques (small barrels). “It’s a complex and Old World wine, full-bodied and robust with smooth tannins and oak notes,” Sehic explained. It pairs well with prosciutto, duck and aged cheeses. $32.
Trnjak (red): This grape originated in Croatia but is widely grown in Bosnia and Montenegro. It’s aged in French barriques for 13 months and has a robust, full-bodied flavor with rich notes of blackberries, coffee, chocolate and tobacco. Sehic said it “tastes like a blend of Syrah and Zinfandel — smooth with a pleasant texture.” It’s ideal for steak and roasted lamb. $40.
Sehic recommends opening the red wines to breathe for a half hour or so before serving, ideally at 55-60 degrees. Then raise a glass for a toast: Zivjeli! (ZHEE-vye-lee)
Contributing writer Chris Diebel is a public affairs consultant and founding partner of Bubba – Southern Comforts.
