At Pyra Pizzeria in Norwalk, the Warrior pizza offers a mix of Italian and Iowan specialties. Photo: Karla Walsh
Writer: Karla Walsh
I devoured Stanley Tucci’s memoir, “Taste,” soon after it was released in 2021. As a reporter for EatingWell, I’ve covered many of his buzzy social media recipes, product launches and TV appearances. So recently, when I was flying to the Mediterranean for a vacation and discovered the entire archive of Tucci’s CNN series “Searching For Italy“ streaming via the in-flight WiFi, the timing was perfect. I was about to land in Milan to kick off two weeks of hiking and eating my way through the Tucci family’s homeland.
While I knew a fair amount about Italian history and cuisine, the 14 episodes of the docuseries were excellent appetizers for the marvelous menu ahead. The cultural context really helped set the scene and helped me decide what to eat and drink while I was abroad. So now that I’m back stateside, I want to keep exploring regional Italian cuisine — and relive some of the most memorable bites from my trip. If you, too, want a taste of Italy close to home, try these stellar local restaurants that would surely earn Tucci’s stamp of approval.
Naples: Pyra Pizzeria
Tucci’s episode in Naples naturally focused on wood-fired pizza, which you can find at this hidden gem in Norwalk. Pyra imports San Marzano tomatoes and “00” flour — finely ground, with high protein for elastic dough — to ensure their pies are fairly close to the classic. If tradition is what you’re after, stick with the margherita. Otherwise, savor some Iowa flavor with the “Warrior,” topped with tomato sauce, Romano, bacon, Graziano’s sausage, pepperoni, red onions, mushrooms, black olives and fresh mozzarella.
Rome: Lucca
During Tucci’s visit to Rome, rigatoni all’amatriciana earns the award for best supporting actor, and you can find it in fine form at this chic East Village bistro. (Try it for lunch in one of the best $14 mid-day deals in town.) Tucci once called spaghetti alla Nerano “life-changing,” and you can find a remarkably similar dish of zucchini and spaghetti on Lucca’s four-course prix fixe dinner menu.
Venice: Eatery A
Cicchetti are small snacks or bite-sized appetizers that are often enjoyed on-the-go or while standing and sipping a spritz at a Venetian snack bar, sort of like Spanish tapas. Tucci took a cicchetti tour of Venice on his show, and I followed in his footsteps with a local guide on my final day in Italy. After I returned home, I couldn’t resist swinging into this Ingersoll hot spot to share some happy-hour bruschetta with pals. The toppings vary with the seasons, so the current offerings are especially tempting: burrata, tomato jam and pickled fennel; fig, pear, five-cheese mousse, mostarda and candied walnuts; and anchovies, avocado and tarragon.
Sicily: Cooking with Alessandra
Of course, no local round-up of Italian food could overlook an experience hosted by Alessandra Meschini, the warm Italian mom we could all use some days. Her East Village cooking classes are so popular, they sell out months in advance. So book ahead: It’s worth the wait. You’ll be able to taste the cozy dishes that often have a Sicilian flair, such as cannoli and homemade pasta, and you’ll leave with recipes to recreate the experience again and again. And while your sauce simmers at home, be sure to watch Tucci’s 1996 hit, “The Big Night.”
To keep the fun going, reserve a table at Aposto, Centro, Cosi Cucina … There are more than enough Italian-American spots around town to hold us over until the next trip to Europe — or at least the next season of “Searching for Italy.”
