Seven brunch spots to add to your list


Panka’s brunch menu offers classics with Central and South American twists, like “panqueques” drizzled with dulce de leche and condensed milk. (Photo: Panka Peruvian Restaurant)
By Lily Allen-Duenas

“How ’bout brunch?” Are there three sweeter words in the English language? We seriously doubt it.

Here in Des Moines, we have a handful of brunch spots that are so popular they hardly need mentioning: The Breakfast Club, Drake Diner, Early Bird, HomeGrown and, of course, the Waveland Cafe (home of Breakfast “Momoa Style,” named for its most famous patron).

But there are other hidden gems that we heartily recommend. Here are seven excellent options to add to your list:

Americana
It’s hard to believe this spot opened across from the Pappajohn Sculpture Park in 2011; it feels like it’s been there forever. For $27, you can take unlimited trips to the brunch buffet, and for just $15 more, you can enjoy bottomless mimosas, screwdrivers or bloody marys. The lavish spread features cinnamon rolls, hickory-smoked bacon, fruit, salad, a grilled cheese station and various “bars” for a mac-and-cheese, mashed potatoes and breakfast tacos. To their credit, they also clearly mark which options are free of gluten or dairy.

Cafe Con Leche
If you haven’t heard of this place at the corner of Euclid and Hubbell, well, the regulars would prefer to keep it that way. And, frankly, we can’t blame them. The Latino-owned coffee shop makes everything from scratch with love. Their breakfast burritos, chilaquiles, tortas and open-faced molletes will make you swoon. On the sweet side, they offer crepes and pancakes drizzled with dulce de leche.

Guesthouse Tavern + Oyster
With its tagline “Northwoods inspired, Midwestern hospitality,” this place in West Des Moines offers rustic ambiance (with a canoe mounted on the wall) and a “blunch” menu smothered in goodness. You can dig into shrimp and grits, lobster rolls, tater tot poutine, shrimp po’ boys, and oysters for days. Sally’s Cheese-Curd-Stuffed Potato Cakes come highly recommended, but if you’re really hungry, you can’t go wrong with the classic Northwoods Lumberjack special: two eggs, breakfast potatoes, two pancakes, toast and your choice of bacon, smoked sausage links or a maple sausage patty.

Panka
Ever wonder what brunch looks like south of the border? At Panka, you can take a whole culinary tour: Salvadoran pupusas, Venezuelan arepas and Colombian empanadas. And if you haven’t tried Panka’s classic Peruvian nachos, called “salchipapas,” you should correct that, inmediatamente. Oh — and don’t skip dessert. Nuegados, a traditional dessert of fried yuca dumplings with honey, is something you’ll dream about later.

Railroad Bill’s Dining Car
Feast on a platter of hash browns and then shop for antiques all under one roof? Well, sure. Why not? At this place, you can order cheap eats right at the counter, including breakfast nacho slingers (served over home fries instead of chips) and mini deep-fried pancakes worthy of the state fair. Bonus: They also have a separate vegan menu.

Secret Admirer
On summer Saturdays, this adorable indoor-outdoor bar south of the Court Avenue farmers market opens at 10 a.m. to serve goodies from local partners, like breakfast tacos from Clyde’s Fine Diner and cold brew lattes from Northern Vessel. The housemade drinks include creative concoctions like a cold brew martini and the Squeeze Box, made with vodka, apricots, blackberry vanilla shrub, with lemon and fizzy Topo Chico. The menus and drinks change, but the deliciousness doesn’t. So exactly when will they open for the season? They’ll spill that secret on Instagram.

Truman’s
This East Village pizza place probably isn’t on your brunch radar, but it should be. Like Fong’s Pizza, it stretches the boundaries of what a pizza can be. Say hello to Biscuits & Gravy Pizza, Eggs Benedict Pizza and even a “Hangover Pizza,” with a beer-cheese queso topped with chorizo, three cheeses and poached eggs. You’ll be feeling better in no time. They also serve straight-up biscuits and gravy (without the pizza crust), omelets and — get this — French toast doughnut holes.
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