By Wini Moranville
When I walked into The Cheese Shop of Des Moines to interview owner C.J. Bienert, I passed a rush of spreads, jams, conserves, pickles, olives, chocolates and more. Next came the sweeping display of artisanal cheeses from around the world, followed by a cooler stocked with cured meats, fancy butters and other indulgences. Behind me: racks of wine, including more sparkling choices than you’d expect in such a snug little spot.
Wow, I thought: How are we going to narrow this down to the best way to spend $100 for this assignment?
Within 2 seconds, Bienert had a strategy. “Tell them to order my monger board,” he said. “It’s the best introduction to the shop.”
It wasn’t what I’d come in to write about, but I listened — and learned.
“Trouble is, sometimes you come in, buy a few chunks of cheese and throw them in your fridge’s ‘cheese drawer,’ which, let’s be honest, can become a ‘cheese coffin’ once you forget about them,” he said.
And those condiments? Check your pantry. You probably have a few unopened, possibly expired jars you’ve long been meaning to use.
“People don’t have time to figure out what cheeses and accompaniments to get,” Bienert added.
Instead of overthinking it, let the staff choose for you. They’ll pick the cheeses they’re most excited about, pair them with cured meats and just enough condiments (not a fridge-cluttering amount), plus a few extras: nuts, dried fruit, cornichons and crackers — just enough to make a full spread, but not so much that leftovers languish.
Really, it’s genius — and far more satisfying than spending $100 on hunks of this and jars of that and other things you might not get to. Monger boards range from $20 to $60; I took home the $30 version (three cheeses and two meats, pictured), and two of us enjoyed “happy hour” nibbles for three days. Zero waste.
Still, if a C-note is burning a hole in your pocket, here’s what Bienert recommends to buy in addition to a $30 monger board:
- Peter Lauer Saar Riesling Brut ($42): “Great for day-drinking and phenomenal for the money.”
- Minnow Cod Liver ($9.99): “The foie gras of the sea.”
- Jose Marina Rio Mackerel in Curry Sauce ($15.99): A standout from the tinned-fish boom.
Find The Cheese Shop of Des Moines at 833 42nd St. or call (515) 528-8181.
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