The Cheese Drunk Cheeseburger at The Walnut “might exceed your lifetime cheese quota.”
Writer: Karla Walsh
Photographer: Duane Tinkey
Most barbers don’t cut their own hair. Dentists don’t pull their own teeth. And chefs? They outsource, too. And when they do, it’s intentional.
Whenever I ask chefs, restaurant owners and cooking instructors where they like to eat on their days off, each one seems to have a passionate response and some pro tips about what to order. They usually like to spread the love, mentioning various restaurants and food trucks, but they almost always circle back to that one spot they love above all the others.
Since a fellow food pro’s endorsement is quite the gold star, you can trust the following recommendations, in their own words.
AMARA SAMA
Owner of Palms DSM
Find him at The Walnut
“My first visit to this Western Gateway restaurant was almost by accident. It was 2019, and the only reason I was there was because I was working with Des Moines Public Schools at the time, and our team held our annual Christmas party there. The customer service blew me away, as did the variety on the menu and the vibe: an open concept with décor that strikes the perfect balance of energetic sports bar and sit-and-relax restaurant.
“After my first taste, I began visiting frequently with friends, whether to grab a quick lunch or catch an Iowa State game on TV. You’ll spot me at The Walnut about once per week, positioned in front of the pretzel bites (the best in town!) and the Cheese Drunk Cheeseburger. (It’s a secret menu item that’s available every day: essentially, a cheeseburger you can dunk in a bowl of melted cheese.) Although I do it often, I wouldn’t recommend ordering both at the same time unless you, too, are up for a challenge. You might exceed your lifetime cheese quota in one sitting.”
RYAN SKINNER
Private Chef
Find him at Noah’s Ark
“When I was a baby, my parents, who owned Home Team Pizza at the time, kept my crib next to the pizza ovens to keep me warm. I’ve literally grown up in this industry. To this day, I love to spend my night off in a family favorite: Noah’s Ark. My dad was a regular as a child, and I’ve been going there my entire life. Whenever family from out of town come to visit, this Ingersoll mainstay continues to be our special-occasion spot. Of course, nostalgia plays a big part in my fondness for it, but the food doesn’t disappoint.
“I typically go once a week and start at the sunken bar. It’s a great spot to sip and wait for a table to open. Once I’m at my table I order a large pizza, half pepperoni and half sausage. Or spaghetti with a side salad with Italian dressing. Or maybe fried chicken. Oh wait — or an Italian sausage sandwich. That’s the sleeper hit! And rolls. Always rolls. It’s all stellar. The fact that it’s been around for 75 years and has been consistently serving great food is so impressive.”
SARAH AND TONEY CHEM
Co-owners of 5 Borough Bagels
Find them at Harbinger
“Harbinger has the trifecta: incredible customer service, top-tier food quality and an atmosphere that strikes the perfect balance between relaxed and refined. This is why it’s been our regular escape for years. Years ago, we booked a reservation for a Wednesday date night, and before we left, we agreed this should become a tradition. It quickly turned into a sacred weekly event — the best part of our week and our favorite way to connect and unwind together.
“These days, getting a sitter feels like coordinating a NASA launch, so we don’t make it in as often as we’d like, but we still dream about those dinners and swing in as often as we can. Our ultimate order would be one of everything. Kidding! But for a nice sampling, we adore the tasting menu. It never fails that at least one dish makes us think, ‘Hmm … not sure about that combo.’ But without fail, that ends up being the star of the night. Harbinger has a way of making the unexpected unforgettable. The dishes might challenge your taste buds in the best way, and somehow you’ll find yourself craving them again the next day. Always, always make it a point to try a dessert.”
JESS ROBERTSON
Executive Pastry Chef at Oak Park
Find her at Waterfront Seafood
“My husband, Ian [Oak Park’s executive chef], and I were both born and raised in Des Moines but moved away for several years as we worked at other restaurants. Three years ago, we returned for the opening of Oak Park and soon debuted our Monday date nights. Just before we swing into T.J. Maxx to check out the candle collection and go grocery shopping for our family for the week, we snag a booth at the West Des Moines Waterfront.
“The quality of the fresh fish and seafood is tough to beat, so it can sometimes be tempting to stray from our favorites. But we have settled into our routine: a Moscow mule for Ian, an Arnold Palmer for me and fried rock shrimp to share. Then we split the tuna, hamachi and salmon nigiri and the spicy, tempura-fried Bruce Lee Roll. The food keeps us coming back, but so does the fact that the booth is our reminder to pause and talk about our dreams for the future.”
The Togarashi Tuna Roll from Akebono 515 is one of Dominic Iannarelli’s go-to orders.
DOMINIC IANNARELLI
Chef-Owner of Prime & Providence
Find him at Akebono 515
“Even though I own a steakhouse, I’m extremely fond of fish. I love sushi, in particular, and this downtown restaurant has some of the best in the metro. Plus, the staff is great and the drinks always flow. I’ve been going once or twice per month for more than a decade; we have quite the long-term relationship. Sometimes I bring friends so we can enjoy the warm hospitality and great seafood together. But often, I’m solo. I’ve had so many memorable moments at Akebono, including one I’ll never forget: I finalized the details for my transition to Prime & Providence at the sushi bar.
“I can’t guarantee what I was eating that night, but I bet it was ‘the usual.’ I always start with the shrimp tempura, then ask for two rolls: the snow crab-stuffed Togarashi Tuna Roll and the Oishi Roll, which stars spicy tuna, shrimp tempura, yellowtail and avocado. Both are incredible.”
The salmon tartine at La Mie pairs well with morning gossip.
ALESSANDRA MESCHINI
Owner of Cooking With Alessandra
Find her at La Mie
“I landed in Des Moines 20 years ago, just a few years after this Drake neighborhood bakery opened. I was initially lured in by the large marble table near the entrance, the one full of fluffy loaves of focaccia and the best ciabatta bread. This convinced me immediately that sadness cannot exist at La Mie, especially when the aroma of fresh coffee hit me soon after that sight.
“I’ve been a regular since that day, and I visit at least twice per month during my mornings off to meet friends. With its ‘softly loud’ background noise, the bakery’s atmosphere is ideal for morning gossip over salmon tartines. In the past two decades, I feel like La Mie and I have grown together. It’s my safe place, plus it offers delicious food and pastries. It doesn’t get much better than this.” ■
