Denise Diaz tends the counter at The Empire, across the street from where she got her start at the old Java Joes. She brought her coffee equipment from Ritual Café. (Photo: Michael Morain)
By Kendra Esau
The closing of Ritual Café last year after two decades in business left a hole in downtown Des Moines and the hearts of local coffee lovers. But just a few blocks away, you’ll find former owner Denise Diaz doing what she does best: making delicious coffee for the people of Des Moines.
The Empire opened in October in the former Fong’s Pizza location at 223 Fourth St. The casual counter-service spot was named after the original Empire, a bar that operated for a hot minute, from April 1905 to July 1906, in the old Elliot Hotel on the same spot. Step inside and you can still see original tile flooring from the early 1900s, along with other antique elements that honor the old space.
Diaz’s opportunity to join The Empire popped up before she wound down operations at Ritual Café, where Empire co-owner Jeff Brunning was a regular. “I mentioned to him that I decided to end my run with Ritual,” Diaz recalled. “He said, ‘Let’s talk.’ We met, and he told me they wanted to do coffee on Fourth Street again and asked me if I wanted to join the team. I carried my recipes and coffee knowledge to the Empire.”
The Empire purchased most of Ritual Café’s espresso and coffee equipment. “We use the same house and espresso blend that we used at the Ritual,” Diaz said. “And many of my signature drinks made it to the menu, such as the Mayan Mocha.”
Diaz has been running The Empire’s coffee service since it opened. When The Empire started serving coffee and pastries from a tent out front every other Saturday during the Downtown Farmers’ Market, she led that operation, too.
Although Ritual Café is now only a memory, Diaz’s love for coffee and customers still remains.
“Coffee is in my DNA. I love making coffee, I love meeting new people, and I love being back on Fourth Street where I started in 1992, working for the Coppolas at Java Joes back in the day,” Diaz said. “The Empire may be a new venue, but my love for coffee is the same.”
Contributor Kendra Esau is a copywriter in Des Moines. When she’s not writing you can usually find her at a thrift store or checking out new businesses around the city.
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