Flora to open Dec. 18 at Botanical Garden


The HoQ Mediterranean Bowl will move to the menu at Flora. (Photo: Michael Morain)

By Wini Moranville

At HoQ, chef-owner Suman Hoque has stayed true to the mission he set when he opened the restaurant in 2012: to showcase Iowa products and support local farmers. Except for a few things we just don’t produce here — salt, pepper, lemons, limes — 90% of his ingredients come from our state.

While Hoque made a name for himself in the fresh and local movement (while also making a lot of diners very, very happy), he’s allowing himself some flexibility with his new restaurant, Flora, set to open Dec. 18 at the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden.

“I’ve got more options!” he said as he gestured toward the menu. While Iowa will be the source for many of Flora’s ingredients — such as late fall vegetables like squash, tomatoes frozen from the summer, cheese from Milton Creamery, and bison from Whiterock Conservancy — he’s granted himself permission to branch out. After all, the restaurant’s name nods to a garden’s bounty; honoring that necessitates sourcing more vegetables than what you can find locally in an Iowa winter. Hence, ingredients like broccoli, kale and cucumbers will round out the season’s offerings.

One specific ingredient comes from far beyond Iowa’s borders: his mother’s homemade spice blend, shipped directly from Bangladesh. “It’s her own mixture,” he said. “She dries, crushes and blends the spices herself before sending them to me.”

Hoque explained that Bangladeshi seasonings aren’t necessarily hot; rather, the spices are light, bringing flavor and aromatics more than heat. He uses the blend sparingly, adding just a pinch here and there for a signature spin on his creations.

Flora’s opening menu is designed with winter in mind, featuring hearty soups, sandwiches and a couple of entrees. When asked for his top three recommendations, Hoque didn’t hesitate:

The HoQ Mediterranean Bowl is a popular item from his flagship restaurant (which will no longer serve lunch). This vibrant dish features lentil falafel, seasonal vegetables, turmeric couscous and Milton Creamery quark cheese.

The Bucatini and Meatballs pair grass-fed beef meatballs with a red sauce enhanced with kale. “I always like to add something green to my food,” he said.

The Bison Chili is a true winter warmer made with local bison, black beans, sour cream and a hint of his mother’s “secret spice.” He especially recommends adding a fried egg for extra richness.

While these dishes are thoroughly enticing, I keep circling back to the Tandoor Chicken Salad Sandwich, served on house-made focaccia with watermelon radish. For $2 more, you can swap the accompanying salad for a cup of soup. I have my eye on the chickpea soup with massaman curry and coconut cream.

Starting Dec. 18, Flora will be open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesdays through Sundays. Hoque said he hopes to add a Sunday brunch soon, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Find it at the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden at 909 Robert D. Ray Drive.

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