Manager Robert Wilke rounded up a few recommendations at Middlebrook Mercantile in Cumming. (Photo: Wini Moranville)
By Wini Moranville
Middlebrook Mercantile is a curious little gem housed in a thoughtfully restored 19th-century schoolhouse that once held the endearing Adam & Abby’s restaurant. It combines a wine, cocktail and coffee bar with a petite pantry of tightly curated gourmet provisions, and it hosts live entertainment, trivia and music bingo most Wednesdays through Sundays.
To me, this isn’t a market you visit with a basket and a checklist. It’s a cozy, compelling place to settle in on a winter night, enjoy a drink and a nibble, and then leave with a handful of delights to tide you over until next time. With that in mind, and in keeping with the topic of this series, I asked manager Robert Wilke to show me how best to spend around $100 at “the Merc.”
Start with wine. Wilke led me to a shelf showcasing Pacific Northwest vineyards owned by Iowans. Pick one: The Cashflow Red Mountain Cabernet Franc ($30). “This grape doesn’t get grown enough, and when it does, it’s usually much more expensive,” he said. Or go for the Windhorse Vineyard Columbia Gorge Rosé of Sangiovese ($33), a dry, South-of-France-style sip.
Try an alternative for beer drinkers. Take home a four-pack ($28) of one of Middlebrook’s collaborations with Adventurous Brewing in the Quad Cities. Bike Trail Citrus drinks a little like Blue Moon, “but with a lot more to it,” Wilke said. For something heartier this time of year, try a coffee stout called All Hat, No Cattle.
Build a cheese and charcuterie plate. Start with some Iowa favorites, including buttery, tangy and sweet Maytag Havarti ($10), as well as another Iowa delight, Silver Farms Beef and Cheddar Summer Sausage ($11). Round those out with some excellent artisan-style Firehook Classic Sea Salt Crackers ($10). If you have any willpower left, go for Nuts on the Run Sea Salt Caramel Pecans ($7). “You can’t leave the bag alone,” Wilke said.
Don’t overlook the condiments — or stocking stuffers? Frog Spit BBQ Sauce ($10) from Bedford, Iowa, brings a bright, tangy lift to barbecue, according to Wilke. Or try Wicked Pickle Fermented Hot Sauce ($10). Use it as you would any hot sauce; at one point during my visit, it even showed up in a house martini.
By the way, I should also mention that while the Mercantile doesn’t have a kitchen, you can buy any of the food in their market to enjoy while you’re there. They’ll give you the cutting boards and utensils you need to serve yourself.
Wini Moranville has been writing about food and dining in Des Moines since 1997. Follow her at Dining Well in DSM by Wini Moranville.
