Dough Co. Pizza has the best gluten-free crusts around.
Writer: Deidre DeJear
Photos: Duane Tinkey
In February 2020, I went to the doctor worried about pain in my joints and lower back. Alongside a conversation about early onset rheumatoid arthritis, my doctor flagged another concern: My A1C was high, and if I didn’t make some changes, diabetic medication would be in my near future. I was already exercising three times a week, so he urged me to focus on my diet and recommended a low glycemic, anti-inflammatory approach.
When I started looking for specific solutions, it didn’t take long for me to fall down a rabbit hole. But I eventually decided to give up gluten, alcohol and sugar.
Gluten was the hardest to let go. It was in everything. I started to question whether it was needed and soon learned it was not. After 90 days, I returned for my follow-up, and the results were undeniable. My A1C had dropped significantly, I was more than 20 pounds lighter, and I genuinely felt better. The early COVID lockdowns helped because I was cooking at home almost every day. But once the world reopened and I returned to some of my favorite local restaurants, sticking with my new restrictions became more challenging.
I am not celiac, but gluten simply does not agree with my body. And the more consistently I eat gluten-free, the worse gluten feels when I reintroduce it. The texture of gluten pasta or bread now feels like sticky glue in my mouth. Thankfully, in the last five years, restaurants across greater Des Moines have expanded their gluten-free options. This year, my goal is to prioritize my health without losing the flavors that bring me joy.
Here are a few of my favorite spots:
BAR NICO
Bar Nico is a truly gluten-free kitchen, which I love because there is zero temptation to stray from my plan. Parking can be tricky in the East Village, but the food is well worth the effort. Their housemade chips and salsa are always a great start — hot corn tortilla chips and a lineup of salsa verde, salsa taqueria, guajillo and an eggplant chile dip that adds creamy depth that still manages to surprise me.
The protein is another highlight. On my last visit, I had the Maine lobster taquito, braised lamb empanadas, pork belly Cubano tacos and crispy gulf-style rice. The happy hour is generous, flavorful and friendly to the bottom line.
KATHMANDU
Kathmandu is a community treasure. I first fell in love with it in 2021 when a friend introduced me to its former location on the south side. I had explored Indian and Nepali cuisine before, but this became my go-to. Now located in Windsor Heights, the restaurant has nearly tripled in size.
Out of 96 menu items, 58 are gluten-free. The choices feel endless with curries, tandoor, biryanis and several house specialties, including my favorite, the lamb sekuwa, at medium spice. This dish is layered with flavor, finished with a perfect tandoor sear and beautifully balanced with sliced vegetables that feel fresh from the farm. I usually start with the onion bajji and aloo tikki. If my husband, Marvin, and I are together, we add the chicken biryani because we like to share — and always two bowls of lentil soup.
Many of the menu’s dishes are also vegan or vegetarian, and Kathmandu pulls them off beautifully.
LOUIE’S WINE DIVE
Louie’s is one of the places I trust the most. I’ve probably explored this menu more than any other in town and can hardly recall a miss. The seasonal staples include pork gnocchi, spicy shrimp diablo, harissa deviled eggs, crisp pecan Brussels sprouts, squeaky cheese, champagne fish and chips, and short ribs braised in red wine. I’ve also tried their rotating burgers, including the Sinatra and the Bacon Jam, but the dish I hope returns is their lobster mac. And for dessert, the chocolate budino is always the right choice.
The brunch and lunch menus offer additional dishes beyond the dinner menu. While I have done plenty of carryout, I especially enjoy settling in for a late dinner. The ambiance is just right.
DOUGH CO. PIZZA
I love a good gluten-free pizza slice, and Dough Co. is a reliable fix. Born in the Drake neighborhood and now expanded to Ankeny, it offers one of the better gluten-free crusts around — flavorful, sturdy and able to hold generous toppings. I always ask for a party cut. Something about the weight of toppings on a square slice just works.
My favorites are the Hog Wild, Margaret and Giovanni pizzas. Dough Co. also offers vegan and vegetarian options, and I’m a sucker for their ranch dressing — even the vegan version — because every few bites deserve a quick dip.
AURA
This spot in Clive greets you with a quiet confidence the moment you walk in. While they offer several gluten-free entrees, the standout for me is the chicken piccata. The care that goes into this dish feels like a delicacy. The chicken is served over vibrant, perfectly crisp green beans that add freshness to every bite, and the lemon caper cream sauce is lemon-forward yet balanced, silky rather than sharp. They could bottle the sauce and sell it on its own.
My transition to gluten-free eating was not about perfection. It was about listening to my body and learning how to honor my health without giving up the joy of good food. Gluten-free eating, for me, has become less about avoidance and more about discovery.
The local dining scene continues to improve, offering thoughtful dishes with depth, balance and intention. These restaurants prove that dietary needs and culinary craft can coexist, transforming what could be a sacrifice into simple pleasure. My journey has shown me that when chefs embrace creativity, diners like me gain freedom, not limits. Every plate that arrives both wholesome and delicious confirms that the kitchen understands how to feed not just the body, but the spirit.
Contributor Deidre DeJear is the president and CEO of Oakridge Neighborhood.
