Eric Baccam celebrates with his team, the Rollcicles, at the 2024 Pho King Cook-Off. (Photo: Kimann Huynh)
By Michael Morain
At first glance, the annual Pho King Cook-Off seems like an excuse to giggle a little and wear funny shirts that say “Pho King Delicious” and “Pho King VIP.”
But like the signature dish it celebrates, there’s a lot going on beneath the surface. Every Southeast Asian culture has its own versions of the broth and noodles that originated in Vietnam, with regional variations — and opinions — that sharply diverge.
Ten culinary teams duked it out at the Iowa Asian Alliance’s sold-out showdown this past weekend at the River Center. Bobby Q’s Hawaiian Grill in Cedar Falls won the judges’ prize, while the Knoxville-based food truck Pho T was the judges’ runner-up. Mama Phan’s local team won the people’s choice award, and the Rollcicles were the people’s runner-up.
The local Eggroll Ladies won this year’s bonus category, for egg rolls, edging out a team called Arcadia, which hopes to open a restaurant in Polk City.
“It’s a friendly competition, but man, they take it seriously,” event organizer Nu Huynh said.
As she explained it, traditionalists insist on the clarity of the broth, which should be aromatic and delicious even on its own. Pho King purists turn up their noses at broth boosters like sugar, hoisin sauce and even ketchup. “The broth shouldn’t look like muddy sink water,” Huynh said.
More experimental chefs like to toss in the whole kitchen sink, including seafood, chili oil, fried onions and other nontraditional veggies. But whatever goes into the pot, Huynh said, “it should be balanced.”
