Capon confidential: plump, tender, full of flavor

“You know what a capon is, right?” a chicken farmer named Letha Holdeman asked me.

“Yes,” I said. “And there’s really no nice way to put it, is there?”

We were talking about what made her chickens so flavorful. Indeed, while caponizing — or neutering — young roosters might not be the most pastoral topic, it’s the secret to the Holdeman family’s rich, succulent birds. Once caponized, the roosters grow plump, tender and more flavorful than your average supermarket chicken.

The Holdemans have been raising capons in northeast Iowa since 2012, supplying them nationwide. If you spot one in a store, often only around holidays, odds are it came from the Holdemans even if it’s sold under a different brand name. Bigger than a chicken but smaller than a turkey, a whole capon is ideal for small holiday gatherings.

My favorite cut, however, is the boneless, skin-on thigh. Nearly impossible to find in supermarkets, these are perfect for entertaining: You get all that flavor and crisp texture from the skin and deep flavor from the thigh meat, but guests don’t have to hassle with cutting around a bone.

As far as I know, you can find this cut only at the Iowa Food Cooperative. Often, the thighs are available in the freezer case at the Coop’s storefront at 4944 Franklin Ave. You don’t have to be a member to simply walk in and shop, but do take note of their limited hours. However, the most sure-fire way to get your hands on the goods is to join the Coop and order them (and other great Iowa-grown and raised products) as you need them. Find out more about joining on their website.

Intrigued? Try the capon thighs in my Roast Chicken Stuffed with Ricotta, Shallots and Fines Herbes, inspired by Iowa-born cookbook legend Richard Olney. The recipe calls for chicken breasts, but I always use capon thighs. Or simply roast them and serve with a bright spring salad, like I did with a terrific salad from Nourished DSM.