My Thanksgiving, old and new

Why not start Thanksgiving morning with some pumpkin bread pudding? (Photo: Getty)

By Haley Scarpino

Thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays. I love the cozy, comforting food that sparks memories. I recently heard someone refer to Thanksgiving food as bland, and I have to tell you: My heart broke a little.

Some Thanksgiving tables may be boring. Mine is not! Like any delicious meal, there needs to be balance and some bright surprises. I have a few recipes I make every year, like mashed potatoes and a stuffing that makes me weak in the knees. Even so, I still like experimenting with other dishes.

Breakfast
I don’t usually think much of Thanksgiving breakfast. It’s usually overlooked, but not this year. Since we’ll eat in the afternoon, around one or two, I want something substantial to carry me until the appetizers make an appearance.

I’m eyeing Pumpkin Bread Pudding by Yossy Arefi for the New York Times. If I’m going to finish the day with a slice of pumpkin pie, why not start the day this? I can prep the whole recipe ahead of time and pop it in the oven in the morning. I’m imagining the bread pudding with a cup of coffee standing in my kitchen while reviewing the day’s to-do list.

The recipe is flexible; I can enjoy it warm out of the oven, but it will still be delicious at room temperature. It’s perfect as friends and family drift in and out of the kitchen.

Main
Stay with me here: I’m making roast chicken for Thanksgiving this year. I adore roast chicken, but I don’t share the same feelings about its beloved bigger cousin. Turkeys are huge, heavy and difficult to manage. I’m longing for Samin Nosrat’s Buttermilk-Marinated Roast Chicken. It’s three simple ingredients: chicken, buttermilk and salt. It’s the perfect simple recipe to pair with all the savory recipes on the table.

Side No. 1
I know this is controversial, but I don’t really love green bean casserole. If you do, make it. I’m not here to yuck your yum. But I do happen to love green beans, both fresh and canned, so I’ve had my eye on Ree Drummond’s Green Beans with Tomatoes for years. Tomatoes and green beans are a classic combination, and this recipe elevates the flavor with bacon and onions. It’s a retro recipe that I’m ready to dust off and try.

Side No. 2
Another really fun retro recipe is Spoon Bread Casserole, right from the side of the Jiffy box. My mom has made this one for years, and I never want to celebrate Thanksgiving without it. I’m going to make it with fresh-frozen Iowa sweet corn.

Dessert
I love pumpkin pie. A cold slice on Friday morning in my jammies is one of life’s great pleasures. Since Mom usually grabs a good one from Costco, I’ll make something else. This year it’ll be a Maple Pudding Pie that I created for Simply Recipes, where I work. I adore pudding, and a crumbly graham crust gives it the texture it deserves.

The pie has just five ingredients and requires no baking. It’s creamy, sweet and balanced with smoky maple syrup and salt. The handmade whipped cream is essential because it’s not too sweet and adds an extra boost of maple flavor.

I’m excited to see how these new recipes blend with old favorites to create a Thanksgiving spread that feels both familiar and fresh.

Haley Scarpino is a chef, home cook, recipe tester, food editor, and graduate of the Iowa Culinary Institute.

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